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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.